Brake FadeEdit

Main article: Brake Fade

Fade, or brake fade is the reduction in stopping power caused by a buildup of heat in the braking surfaces (and in the case of drum brakes the change in dimension of components in response to heat; the curvature of the brake shoes then failing to match the curvature of the brake drum).

Braking FrictionEdit

Main article: Braking Friction

Friction is the mechanism that converts dynamic energy into heat. Just as there are two sorts of friction between the tire and the road surface (mechanical gripping of road surface irregularities by the elastic tire compound and transient molecular adhesion between the rubber and the road in which rubber is transferred to the road surface), so there are two very different sorts of braking friction - abrasive friction and adherent friction. Abrasive friction involves the breaking of the crystalline bonds of both the pad material and the cast iron of the disc. The breaking of these bonds generates the heat of friction. In abrasive friction, the bonds between crystals of the pad material (and, to a lesser extent, the disc material) are permanently broken. The harder material wears the softer away (hopefully the disc wears the pad). Pads that function primarily by abrasion have a high wear rate and tend to fade at high temperatures. When these pads reach their effective temperature limit, they will transfer pad material onto the disc face in a random and uneven pattern. It is this "pick up" on the disc face that both causes the thickness variation measured by the technicians and the roughness or vibration under the brakes reported by the drivers.

Preventing DamageEdit

Following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions.

What is a captive rotor? Edit

With a captive rotor setup, the rotors, hubs and bearings are all bolted together as an assembly when they're on the car. Without the captive bolts in place, the whole thing would fall apart if you tried to drive the car.

With a non-captive setup, the hub and bearing are one unit, but the rotor is separate, and is held in place by the wheel once it is secured with the lug nuts.

The rotors themselves are much different too. Captive rotors have indents in the centre part for the backs of the lug bolts, which are pressed into the front piece of the captive rotor/bearing/hub assembly. The four holes in the rotor are for the captive bolts that hold everything together. Non-captive rotors have four holes too, but these fit on OVER the lug bolts, which are pressed into the back of the hub assembly itself.

You can't swap rotor for rotor because the two designs are vastly different.

Simply put: when you change rotors on a captive rotor setup, you remove the wheel bearing along with the rotor, and it's a lot of work. On a non-captive setup, the rotor comes off independently of the bearing/hub etc and is very simple to remove. If you want to replace captive rotors with non-captive, you have to change the bearing, hub, spindle and rotor.

This system is not found on 2nd generation tiburons. this is something that First gen owners have to look for.

a picture of this setup is below

NOTE: don't get confused about the small screw that is on the hubs in 2nd gen tiburons. this screw is there only for the production of the vehicle. you can take this off when applying aftermarket rims.

If you have captive rotors, and would like to do a swap, please visit this link here

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